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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.